My London travels: clean and cleaner

Walking was getting a bit tiring in London. I stopped for a little rest at Cavendish Square – one of many little green oases dotted around London’s centre.

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It was lovely! Among all the bustle and noise of the capital I found myself enjoying the sight of the green, green grass and huge old trees.

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Then I saw this  monument. Nothing special, I thought, just one of many undistinguished equestrian figures on London streets. It looked quite old, made of some kind of white stone (marble, perhaps) and badly cracked.

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The only funny detail was that half of one of his legs was missing.

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I went to have a closer look and… I was gobsmacked when I read this inscription! 

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Meekyoung Shin

Written in Soap
A Plinth Project

10 July 2012 – 30 June 2013

Written in Soap: A Plinth Project is a new public art commision by the Korean artist Meekyoung Shin.

This one-year project recreates in soap the original equestrian statue of the Duke of Cumberland that sat on this plinth in the square from 1770 to 1868, and which was removed in the nineteenth century due to the widespread disapproval of his actions in Scotland following his victory at the Battle of Culloden in 1746.

The new work will make use of the Cavendish Square plinth for the first time in 144 years and bring focus to the passage of time as the sculpture weathers throughout the four seasons. As the sculpture erodes due to the effects of the weather, the scented soap will disintegrate and release a perfumed aroma. The detail of the statue will soften and fade over time, symbolising the mutable meanings we attached to public monuments and our history.

THIS SCULPTURE IS ACTUALLY MADE OF SOAP!

I mean… Is it wonderful or not?!

Could it be that the London  authorities decided to kill THREE birds with one stone – to re-create old statues, hint at the passing of time and make the city cleaner? 🙂

“The night rinses what the day has soaped.”

My London Travels: Duke or no Duke?

Turned off a big busy London road to a small side street.

It was called:

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Almost straight away I saw this pub

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Hmmm… it was logical to assume that we are talking about the Duke of Devonshire here. Other signs confirmed it.

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Perhaps, this place used to be where the good Lord’s town estate used to be? Or his hunting grounds? Or something along these lines. The whole area is one way or another connected with the Cavendish family of which the Devonshires are the members…

And then I saw this inscription… right next to the pub’s door!

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Wow! I could JUST imagine …

A Duke, right?

Wikipedia: “This branch of the Cavendish family has been one of the richest and most influential aristocratic families in England since the 16th century, and has been rivalled in political influence perhaps only by the Marquesses of Salisbury and the Earls of Derby”. The title was given in the 17th century, but they were the nobility long before then).  That’s what they looked like:

The 4th Duke of Devonshire

The 4th Duke of Devonshire

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The 9th Duke

This is the current Duke:

The 12th Duke of Devonshire

The 12th Duke of Devonshire

Somehow – I don’t really know why – but I doubt that I was looking at his place of residence  there, just above the pub 🙂

 

I love London!

 

 

 

 

My London Travels: Architecture

I love London! Not that I would ever wanted to live there, but I really enjoy my visits there every now and again. And I always find treasures of various kinds all over the place.

Today I was paying attention to the London architecture. It is so majestic!

Just walking at the very heart of London you can’t help admiring the splendid buildings everywhere – just lift your head a little bit!

I was walking down Regent Street (named after Prince regent, later George IV) and looking around… Wow! What an architectural feast! Every building in Regent Street is protected as a listed builing with at least Grade II status, the styles varying from classical, Gothic, French neo-classical, Tudor-style, post-Edwardian to art deco! And all of them just beautiful.

 

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I love this round tower at the corner!

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Magnificent entrance!

 

Look how the street curves and the building curves with it

Look how the street curves and the building curves with it

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Love the balconies!

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I have a weakness for the buildings’ corners – they are not just the boring square “normal” corners but wonderfully inventive ones. And the balconies, of course!

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This dome in the corner is so intriguing. What is it for?

This dome in the corner is so intriguing. What is it for?

So, here is my love letter to London buildings.

I have a lot more to say – but later… 🙂

 

 

Walking around London – Westminster Scholars Memorial

When I was in London the other week, I walked towards Westminster Abbey and stopped at a little square near it’s Western entrance. There I noticed a tall column, obviously a memorial of some kind which I never noticed before (shame on me).

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It is probably easy to look as you are standing there in front of a magnificent edifice of the Gothic Abbey, but this time it draw me nearer. Perhaps, because the D-Day celebrations were so fresh in my memory and left such a huge impact, everything connected to a war was especially interesting.

The memorial was a red granite column with a Portland stone base. There were some figures carved from grey stone and the inscriptions were carved into Portland stone. The column was surrounded by statues of kings and queens, George and the Dragon and four lions.

What was it?!

It is called Westminster Scholars Memorial, probably because it was erected close to Westminster School which is in the building behind it.

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 This memorial is dedicated to former scholars from this school that lost their lives in two 19th century conflicts – the Russian War (1854-1856) and the Indian War (1857-1858) .

On one side there were quite a lot of names, some of them almost unreadable  as the Portland stone has not weathered well over the last 150 years.

And on the other side there was this inscription which – for some reason – really touched me. It said:

 

“To the Memory of those

educated at Westminster School,

who died in the Russian and Indian Wars,

A.D. 1854-1859,

 on the Field of Battle, 

or from wounds or Sickness

 Some in early Youth,

 Some full of Years and Honours, 

but who all alike

Gave their Lives for their Country,

This Column was erected

by their old Schoolfellows,

 in token of Sorrow for their Loss,

 of Pride in their Valour,

 and in full assurance

that the Remembrance of their Heroism

 in Life and Death

will inspire their Successors at Westminster

 with the same Courage and Self-Devotion.”

 

 

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Walk around London: how a curious sign led me to a discovery of a hidden architectural gem

During one of my walks around London I saw an interesting sign outside a relatively small building facing the Thames River, on Victoria Embankment:

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An unusual sign, isn’t it?

It was attached to a beautiful building which immediately aroused my curiosity – and inquisitiveness.

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So, I  went on a mission to find out more.

The address was simply 2, Temple Place. Or, as it used to be known, “Astor House”. You see the famous name here? Of course, it was built by William Waldorf Astorfounder of the famed New York City Waldorf Astoria. Well, not by him, of course, but he commissioned it. Astor had emigrated to England in 1891 as arguably, the richest man in the world.  He wanted his new home to be  “crenellated Tudor stronghold” with three things in mind. He wanted:

1. a residential space as he wanted a home away from the United States where he felt his children would be safer from the threat of kidnapping;

2. he had a vision of a lavish home full of art work, musical instruments and books;

3. he wanted the building to be both his home and offices for managing his holdings.

Well, he certainly had the money to materialize his dream! No expense was spared when work began on Two Temple Place in 1892 by a neo-Gothic architect J.L. PearsonWith seemingly unlimited funds at his disposal Pearson was able to build a lavish building with the assistance of the best craftsmen – builders, stonemasons, wood carvers, ironmongers.

It took just 3 YEARS to finish it – exterior AND interior! Yeah, they could do it in the good old days.

The building is now owned by the charity The Bulldog trust and, unfortunately, is closed to the public except during exhibition, so I wasn’t able to get inside, but I definitely will!

Here are some photos of the extraordinary, opulent interior (oh, they look so alluring!)

 

London - Astor House Gallery

 

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Inside the house there is the largest strong room in Europe as well as two other enormous fortified safes.

I found a funny description of the interiors, though:

“Behind the sturdy Portland stone facade, the interior has a slight strange Victoriana-meets-Disney vibe with the otherwise straightforwardly opulent rooms (lots of marble and mahogany) adorned with bizarre details, such as the characters from The Three Musketeers (Astor’s favorite book) on the banisters of the main staircase and the gilded frieze in the Great Hall showing 54 seemingly random characters from history and fiction, including Pocohantas, Machiavelli, Bismark, Anne Boleyn, and Marie Antoinette”

Imagine that! Now I really want to look at it for myself!!!

The building  was hit by a German flying bomb on 24 July 1944 and it caused a great damage to the house, including burst plumbing. There was some flooding, damaging expensive works of art.  The building, called “Accountants Hall” on the damage report, was deemed as suitable to be “partially demolished” and was fully restored between 1949 and 1951

 

It looks like the sign which led me to all these interesting discoveries was added much later by the Trust. Thank you, sign!

 

 

 

Duke of Wellington? Hmmm…

Last week, when I went to London, I visited Apsley House,  also known as Number One, London. It is the London townhouse of the Dukes of Wellington and, although it is now a museum, the 8th Duke still uses some of it as a residence.

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Of, course it is dedicated to the life of the first Duke, the one who defeated Napoleon, and is full of treasures and mementos, as well as enormous amount of art, which was collected by the Duke.

Two things were especially interesting for me.

One is on a serious note: I haven’t realized just HOW famous and celebrated the Duke of Wellington was. Literally, the whole Europe bowed to him and loved him for the freedom he bestowed on it by beating Napoleon.

The second one is on the humorous side and I encountered it when I went out from the museum to the Hyde Park. There, just opposite Apsley House, stood a monument. From afar it looks just like one of many other statures.

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But when I came nearer I found out that it is actually Wellington’s! Seriously!

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Now, compare:

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Field Marshal Arthur Wellesley, 1st Duke of Wellington

and this

 

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What was it – flattery?

I found it incredibly funny – depicting a XIX century Georgian man (albeit a great one) as a Greek warrior!

 

 

Marina Tsvetaeva – one of the greatest Russian poets

I love poetry. Often at night just before falling asleep I inwardly recite my favourite poems  and the last poem I can’t stop thinking about led me to writing this post about  a great Russian poet MARINA TSVETAEVA.

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She was a remarkable woman with a strange and tragic life.

Her life started fairly well. Perhaps it makes what happened to her later in life all the more dreadful…

Marina Tsvetaeva was born in 1892 in Moscow. Her father was a professor of Fine Art at the University of Moscow (he later founded the Alexander III Museum (known from 1937 as the Pushkin Museum of Fine Arts). So, she and her siblings grew up in a cultured atmosphere and could enjoy literature, music and art from the early age.

Marina spent a lot of her life abroad. When she was 14, her mother got ill and the family went to Switzerland. There, away from the rigid constraints of a bourgeois Muscovite life, Tsvetaeva was able for the first time to run free, climb cliffs, and vent her imagination in childhood games. There Marina was sent to school and, because her family traveled a lot, she learned  the Italian, French, and German languages. She gave up the strict musical studies that her mother had imposed and turned to poetry. 

1913

Aged 16, Marina studied literary history at the Sorbonne. During this time, a major revolutionary change was occurring within Russian poetry: the bloom of the Symbolist Movement, and this movement was to colour most of her later work. Her first book of poetry was published when she was 18 and was very well received and appraised by the leading Russian poets.

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Marina in 1915

 

In the house of one of them (Maximilian Voloshin) Marina met her future husband, also a poet, Sergei Efron.

Sergei Efron

Sergei Efron

They fell in love and got married. She was 19, he was 18.

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Tsvetaeva and her husband spent summers in the Crimea until the revolution, and had two daughters: Ariadna and Irina. I do so believe that they were happy together at that time, because all this was about to change…

When the WW I started, in 1914, Efron volunteered for the front.  In 1917 the Russian revolution erupted. Marina was a close witness of it and rejected it straight away. On trains, she came into contact with ordinary Russian people and was shocked by the mood of anger and violence. After the 1917 Revolution, Efron joined the White Army (in opposition to the Revolution) and Marina returned to Moscow hoping to be reunited with her husband. She was trapped in Moscow for five years, where there was a terrible famine.

God, I can’t even imagine, what she had to endure!

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Starvation and worry were to erode her looks. With no immediate family to turn to, she had no way to support herself or her daughters. In 1919, she placed both her daughters in a state orphanage, mistakenly believing that they would be better fed there. Ariadna became ill, and Marina took her away, but Irina died there of starvation… Her child’s death caused Tsvetaeva great grief and regret. In one letter, she wrote, “God punished me”..

In 1922, Marina and her survived daughter left the Soviet Union and were reunited with Efron in Berlin. For years and years in emigration Marina and her family lived in  poverty trying hard to earn their living…  But she was a poet! I think poets are especially vulnerable and sensitive, so it had to be additionally hard for Marina not only in the material sense but emotionally too… During this time her son Georgy was born.

marina and g=her beloved son Georgy

Marina and her beloved son Georgy

They were still together (just) with her husband but getting further and further apart, though they would say that they loved each other till the rest of his days.

In 1925, the family settled in Paris, where they would live for the next 14 years. Marina did not feel at all at home in Paris’s  ex-bourgeois circle of Russian émigré writers. Although she had written passionately pro-“White” poems during the Revolution, her fellow émigrés thought that she was insufficiently anti-Soviet, and that her criticism of the Soviet régime was altogether too hazy. She was increasingly unhappy. Poor Marina! She couldn’t find peace and/or happiness and she resented her exiled state deeply.

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Meanwhile, Sergei Efron was developing Soviet sympathies and was homesick for the Soviet Union. Eventually, he began working for the NKVD (the forerunner of the KGB). Perhaps, he was trying to score some points in order to persuade the Soviet Government to forget his “White Army” years and convince them of his new loyalty? Who knows… Their daughter shared his views, and increasingly turned against her mother. In 1937, she returned to the Soviet Union. Later that year, Efron too had to return to USSR. Tsvetaeva did not seem to have known that her husband was a spy, nor the extent to which he was compromised.

WWII made Europe as unsafe and hostile as USSR. Marina wanted to be with her family and in 1939, she and her son returned to Moscow. It was to be the biggest mistake in her life.

In Stalin’s USSR, anyone who had lived abroad was a suspect, as was anyone who had been among the intelligentsia before the Revolution. Marina’s sister had been arrested before Marina’s return; although Anastasia survived the Stalin years, the sisters never saw each other again. Tsvetaeva found that all doors had closed to her. She got bits of work translating poetry, but otherwise the established Soviet writers refused to help her, and chose to ignore her situation,  fearful for their life and position.

Efron and their daughter were arrested for espionage. You know what? The daughter’s fiance was actually the KGB agent who had been assigned to spy on the family. How cynical was that?!  Efron was shot in 1941; the daughter served over eight years in prison. 

Now we are coming to the most tragic times…

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In 1941, Marina and her son were evacuated to a small provincial town about 1000 km away from Moscow.  She had no work and no means to feed her son and herself. She actually  applied to the Soviet of Literature Fund asking for a job at the  canteen!

On 31 August 1941 Marina hanged herself. She was 48 years old…

 She left a note for her son: “Forgive me, but to go on would be worse. I am gravely ill, this is not me anymore. I love you passionately. Do understand that I could not live anymore. Tell Papa and Alya, if you ever see them, that I loved them to the last moment and explain to them that I found myself in a trap.”

There have always been rumours that Tsvetaeva’s death was not suicide. On the day of her death she was home alone and it is alleged that NKVD agents came to her house and forced her to commit suicide. But it was never proved. And what does it matter? Life and suffering of one of the greatest Russian poets came to an end.

Marina was buried in the local cemetery, but the exact location of her grave remains unknown. No trace is left of her on this earth.

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Сenotaph to Marina Tsvetaeva in the place where she would be buried.

Now the poem I started my story with. Marina’s poetry is so diverse and she wrote both rhymed and blank verse poems and this particular one is of the latter kind. It was written in 1916

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I would like to live with you

In a small town,

Where there is eternal twilight

And everlasting toll of bells.

And in a small wooden hotel –

Delicate tinkling

Of the old clock – like tiny drops of time.

And sometimes in the evening from some mansard –

A sound of flute

And the flutist’s silhouette in the window.

And perhaps you wouldn’t even love me…

In the middle of the room – a huge tiled stove,

On each tile – a picture:

A rose – a heart – a ship.

And in the only window –

Snow, snow, snow.

You would be lying – how I love you:

Lazy, aloof, carefree.

From time to time a sharp crack of a match.

You cigarette  burns and goes out,

And for a very long time

A short grey column of ash trembles on its end.

You are too lazy to even shake it off –

And the whole cigarette flies into the fire.

 

PS: Sorry for unprofessional translation

 

London Walk: a pleasant discovery

After my bad luck with Apsley House (closed for refurbishment) I was a bit baffled – what to do next? I had been counting on that visit.

Oh, well, I just had to keep walking didn’t I?

So I strolled down some street (herds of tourists everywhere) and spontaneously decided to turn off a side street…

And I found myself in a completely amazing world!

Deserted streets… with beautiful buildings… one or two passers-by… all this in the very centre of London! Wow! How was it even possible?!

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Mysterious building… Quite unusual in the midst of Georgian architecture of that street…

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Ha! Another arch! Don’t think it was as famous as the other two though 🙂

Everything was so quiet… so deserted… so mysterious… Where was I? In some completely different and enchanted world.

I walked  further and further away from the noise and bustle of London and eventually  I reached this monument

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Hmm, I thought, he must be the man responsible for creation of this heavenly corner of the capital, surely. Especially when I saw this inscription:


2013-12-14 13.26.38And this is what he meant:

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All the surrounding streets are built as crescents, full of noble wonderful buildings

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So I looked him up. Errm, no, he wasn’t what I thought at all, not an artist or an architect  – just a 18th century aristocrat. So why the monument then? Aha, looks like it was because the actual place, Grosvenor Square is the centrepiece of the Mayfair (exclusive London’s district) property of the Duke of Westminster. In the beginning of the 18th century one of them got a licence  to develop Grosvenor Square and the surrounding streets and I have to admit he did a good job!

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Lovely little garden all covered with fallen leaves… Still nobody around…

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And this tall, somber and beautiful church in the middle of an empty street

From here I started hearing the noise of London again. Time to go back from this enchanted world which I could never imagine even existed in the midst of London

 

 

Walk around London: Park Lane and a bit further

After the Animals at War experience I crossed the road to Park Lane itself.

Now, for me the name (as well as many other London’s names) always associate with the Galsworthy’s The Forsyte Saga. I love this book, read it many many times and remember very well how Soames Forsyte visited his sister Winifred in her house at Park Lane… 🙂

2013-12-14 11.57.41So I was walking slowly along the street trying to guess what house would Winifred live in?

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No, too showy-off 🙂

A lot of the magnificent buildings on Park Lane are posh hotels now, Marriott and Hilton of course, and the poshest of all – The Dorchester

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A suite here is over £9000 ($14,500) PER NIGHT!

When you are walking along a  street in 21st century and seeing signs “Ballroom” every now and again – it makes you feel quite weird… like Were am I? 🙂

Ok, I reached my interim destination – Wellington Arch.

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When I was crossing the road junction to get to the Arch I saw some sort of murals on the walls of the subway depicting the life and deeds of the Great Man. It was quite interesting actually! I think I was the only one looking though…  No wonder the newspaper guy was eyeing me suspiciously 🙂

Had a little rest on a bench near the monument

2013-12-14 12.35.10Crossed the road to my final goal – Apsley House

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I had done some research!

Apsley House, also known as Number One, London, is the London townhouse of the Dukes of Wellington. It stands alone at Hyde Park Corner, facing south towards the busy traffic roundabout in the centre of which stands the Wellington Arch. It is a Grade I listed building. The house is now run by English Heritage and is open to the public as a museum and art gallery, although the 8th Duke of Wellington still uses the building as a part-time residence”

That’s exactly why I wanted to go there (not mentioning the chance of meeting the 8th Duke perhaps).

Guess what? IT WAS CLOSED FOR REFURBISHMENT TILL BLOODY APRIL! Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaagggggghhhhhhhhh!

Such a disappointment…

Oh, well, would have to find something else then.

Carry on walking around London

So, I started my walk down Park Lane and I spotted something which looked suspiciously like a horse. I just had to go and have a look!

It was a Monument to Animals at War –  a powerful and moving tribute to all the animals that served, suffered and died  in the wars and conflicts of the 20th century.

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There were four figures all together: two heavily laden mules in front of the wall…

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… and a dog and a horse at the back, having gone through the wall bearing witness to the loss of their comrades

The figures of the animals were just fantastic. Two mules at the front, carrying all that war stuff, so resigned to their fate (and all the time you think “Animals.. at war… no chance of surviving for them…”)

Because the whole composition was not made on the same level and was spread over the lawn, among the trees it didn’t look like any official memorial but rather like something very natural and organic and all the more powerful for that reason.

The wall itself was carved with ghostly  silhouettes  of various animals lost in wars and there were inscriptions  about theatres of war and the numbers of animals lost.

But this short line just shocked me

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They didn’t, did they?! NO CHOICE… How terrible… What a poignant inscription…

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There were lots of wreaths from various animal charities  at the base of the wall and two photos of dogs wrapped in plastic files with their stories – obviously recent reminders that the poor creatures still serve with their masters… and still die.

Later I found out that the Memorial was build with the money collected from a national appeal and donations from many charities, companies and people.

I stood there for a long time. It made me very sad and sorrowful thinking of all those creatures who didn’t start  wars, didn’t want to take part in wars but had no choice… and perished…

Sorry.